Saturday, February 23, 2013

Hawaii - Days Six and Seven - Kona/Hilo


Planning ahead so that a trip goes smoothly is always the best idea, BUT things don't always fall in line the way we wish.  Prior to leaving, I had sent an email to Original Hawaiian Chocolate in the hopes of snagging a much coveted tour.  I have not received a reply and figure that we do not have a chance of getting in; however, Mister has a different mindset and wants to give it a shot.  Once we arrive at the farm, I go into the store and question if they received my email.  Nope.  I tell them that I understand that the tour is full and prepare to leave when Pam informs me that since we are already here, we might as well join the tour.  Yes!  I pay the fees and go outside to find Mister doing what he does oh so well.  He has found a couple of interesting subjects to photograph.

The pink flowers have the most unusual type of bees working them and the gecko is playing peek a boo with Mister.  He is squatted down peering through the fence and trying to catch a moment in time.  I think it works well.  Oops, they are calling for the tour to start.

Bob leads us to a quiet spot under an incredibly large monkeypod tree and fills us in on the history of this farm.

He passes around several types of chocolate for us to taste while he is giving background information.  Mister has discovered a century palm tree growing right up through the monkeypod and is clicking away.

After our introduction to chocolate, the tour continues in the orchard.  The cacao trees have to be some of the most interesting trees I have ever been around.  The pods (fruit) grow on the trunks of the trees as well as on the branches.  So odd.

While we are in the orchard, we learn about these unique trees and the whole process of growing and picking cacao pods.  While Bob is talking, a turkey wanders in and has a sit down under the trees.  He does not appear to be the least bit interested in all of us.


From the orchard, we walk over to a sitting area near the drying tables.  At this point, Bob teaches us the next steps in the process of making chocolate -- getting the "beans" out.

I am absolutely in awe of this entire process.  Someone actually figured this out to begin with.  I mean -- really??

Not only do you have to open the pod, but then the white slimy fruit has to ferment until the bean shows.

Then the drying process begins, followed by hulling to get to the nib and then roasting.  Such a long process and we haven't even started to make the chocolate.  Goodness.  Yes, it is a ton of work and this is the only place in America where the process goes from tree to candy on the same location. This is heaven.  And the chocolate is divine as well.  What a great tour!

Look at all the vivid colors.  The drying tables are in the background -- filled with beans.


As we are walking back to the car, we spot some coffee trees that are full of cherries and blossoms and have to stop and see. For me, this learning process is just so cool.  I have always loved gardening and discovering the way something new grows and becomes the products we use daily is a large part of what makes my trip so memorable.

One of the things I love most about traveling to new places is the simple act of seeing.  To notice the small things such as signs or ways people have of communicating with each other.  I spotted this sign shortly after we arrived in Captain Cook and giggled each time we drove by.  since it is our last day in this area, I finally had to stop and take a picture of it.

Is anyone else starving yet?  Dang, I sure am and we have located The Coffee Shack.  There is a wait for a table, but oh my it was worth it.  We are seated near the fence on the balcony and it overlooks the island all the way down to the ocean.  Cassie calls while we are sitting here and I share the details with her.  Is this not awesome, even on a cloudy day such as today?  My tummy is much happier, on we go.


Heading south past Captain Cook for the first time, we soon arrive at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park.  In the words of the brochure:

"In old Hawaii, if you had broken a law, the penalty was death. Perhaps you had entered into an area that was reserved for only the chiefs, or had eaten forbidden foods. Laws, or kapu, governed every aspect of Hawaiian society. The penalty for breaking these laws was certain death. Your only option for survival is to elude your pursuers and reach the nearest puuhonua, or place of refuge.  As you enter, the great wall rises up before you marking the boundaries between the royal grounds and the sanctuary. Many ki'i (carved wooden images) surround the Hale o Keawe, housing the bones of the chiefs that infuse the area with their power or mana. If you reached this sacred place, you would be saved.  Today, you may visit Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, and still feel the spirit of peace and forgiveness that continues to surround and bless this special place."



While we are here, we discover that the words are true.  There is a peace and serenity in this place that seeps into our core.  As we walk along, we discover "Charles" sitting in a shelter showing how ancient tools and dishes were made.  As he talks, we are drawn into his philosophy of life and soon discover that his simple ideas resonate with us.  We will never forget that we are all part of one big canoe and must work together to keep it from tipping over.  We truly walked away from here spiritually uplifted.

As we wandered the islands, Mister was constantly fascinated by the different ways in which the lava was formed.  This one shot at the refuge shows how a tree withstood the heat long enough to make an impression.  Pretty cool huh?


It is time to go snorkeling again and we return to Kahaluu Beach Park armed with our waterproof camera in the hopes of another great eye feast.  Mister is ready before I am and is off into the water while I change.  The moment I step into the water, I am greeted by a Green Turtle and instantly try and get Mister's attention as he has the camera.  Get over here please.  Oh my -- I am able to swim with him for quite awhile as the tide is up and he is way more interested in feeding on the algae to worry about me.  Mister arrives and we are able to have a great experience with these magnificent creatures.  At one point, I think we are swimming with over 5 at once.  Beyond my wildest dreams -- I am so content.



In addition to the turtles, the fish are around as well.  It is raining out and with the high tide, the water is pretty murky for pictures, but trust me, they are beautiful.

The parrotfish and the black triggerfish are probably my favorites of them all.


Making use of the restrooms at the park, we are quickly dry and dressed -- it is indeed time for a brewery.  Kona Brewing, located in Kailua Kona sounds like just the spot.  The place is absolutely packed, but after a few minutes we manage to snag a couple of seats at the bar and order some food and beer.  Perfect.

The beer selection is really nice and after being told that Kona didn't brew locally anymore, we were happy to discover the fallacy in that.

I love the hummus and vegies, but Mister wants real food.  He is craving sushi and Sushi Shiono is just down the street.  Again, the place is overflowing and we are seated on a back patio.

It is a nice night and we just share conversation and enjoy the moment as this is our last night in this area.  What a great end to a really great day.  It has just been one amazing experience after another but I am ready to call it a night.




It is a gorgeous Hawaiian morning and we have to say good-bye to Halemalu.  This little place has been great and we would definitely return.


As we walk around the grounds before departing, I stop to pick some macadamia nuts from the trees.


One last stop inside to use the nut cracker and we are on the road again.  We only go a few miles down the road before stopping for a small breakfast at Coffees N' Epicurea, this great little coffee shop.


I love it here --- great pastries in addition to the open air ambiance.  Once we have our breakfast in hand, back into the car we go -- let's see how far south we can get today.



Driving south on Hwy 11 (the main road on the island), it looks as though we are coming to the end of land and will go straight into the ocean.  We pass three rows of massive, wind generators standing majestically on the cliffs above the shoreline en route to Ka Lae.  The views from here are phenomenal.  We are at the southern most point in the United States.  Yep -- and it is so cool.  We walk over to the edge and are able to look straight down to the waves crashing against the shore below.  It is a longggg way down to the water.  There are ancient mooring holes drilled into the coastal rocks so that canoes could be kept safe while the fishermen worked.  Incredible.


As we retrace our route back to the highway, we take a turn to head towards the Papakolea Beach.  It is also known as the Green Sands Beach and requires a little 4-wheel driving to get down to the access.  Um - we don't have a 4-wheel drive, but Mister gives it a go anyway and soon we are parked out in the middle of nowhere.  Once we arrive at the access, we discover that to continue on the road is not possible with our car and thus requires a 2 1/2 mile hike.  Dang.  Oh well --- the beach here is amazing anyway and we take a few minutes just to enjoy it as it is.  I am not afraid of the 2 1/2 miles -- just the time required as we are hoping to get around the bottom of the island today.


As we arrive in Na'alehu, the southernmost community in the USA, Mister stops to get us a shaved ice.  There is a craft fair/farmers market at the same spot and I quickly discover a shop that has the perfect gifts for my daughters.  I place an order with the artist to have them sent to me and are soon off with Mister to get our treat.  We order a coconut/mango shaved ice and oh my goodness -- it is so delicious.  I want one of these machines back home --- insanely yummy.  Continuing east, we arrive at Punalu'u Beach Park which is also known as The Black Sand Beach.  It is breathtakingly beautiful.  The contrast between the black sand, green foliage, and turquoise water is what dreams are made of.  I think a quilt with these colors would be so fun to do.  Put that on the list.


The black sand is coarse and oh so warm.  We are only there for a few minutes when we notice that the tide is coming in.  And ------ so is a turtle.  Wow!  I cannot believe how lucky we are and we watch as it literally climbs over the lava rocks to get to the beach.  Had it come ashore just a few feet further down the beach it would not have had to deal with the rocks.  Check out the tracks behind the turtle.


Such a special moment.  I so adore these creatures from an ancient time.


I do not want to leave the beach OR the turtle.  I honestly believe I could just sit here all day and do nothing but stare.  Amazing.  Alas, we must be on our way to Hawai'i Volanoes National Park, the gem of this island or so they say.  I am more inclined to believe that I just witnessed a gem of this island.

Once we get to the park, first stop is the Visitor Center to find out where the best spots are for today.  One of the park rangers gives me the best directions for the time we have allotted and we are off.  Taking the southern part of the Crater Rim Drive, we turn onto Chain of Craters Road and follow a great driving tour that we have brought along, adding in the sights that were recommended at the center.  Some of the interesting sights were as follows: (1) The Pauahi Crater which is very large at 1,800 feel long, 350 feet deep and 300 feet wide.  This crater holds religious significance to the Hawaiians and we saw Ti leaf wrapped packages and other gifts sitting near the edge of it.  It has had lava flow through it as recently as 1979.  (2) At the edge of the viewing boardwalk, there is a fissure which we stepped into and looked around.


(3) The path to Pu'u Huluhulu and Mauna Ulu.  We park and walk out to see some of the interesting lava formations along the paths.  Mister locates another fissure and soon is straddling it and scaring me as I stand atop a wall of lava. This fissure is 70-80 feet deep in places.




There are some really cool formations out here and even though they are not technically "lava trees", they are still unique and fun to look at.  Much of the lava is bright with vivid, metallic peacock coloring.  I cannot believe how pretty it is.

One lava covered rock when viewed from the right angle resembles an object we all love.  The park actually calls it "the ice cream cone."  Understandable.


(5) A little further down the road we come to an unusual rock.  Formations like this are created when a cold chunk of lava - part of an older flow, is lifted up from beneath by molten lava.  The top is a fairly flat chunk that has been coated by lava and you can see how the lava has pushed upwards, due to the pressure of the flow and lifted the older lava upwards.  Once again we are reminded of how powerful Mother Nature can be.  It is a lesson that we would all do well to remember now and then as we go about our daily lives.

We have now attained a height of over 4,000 feet and will be going down back to sea level.

(6) At the end of the road we are about 7 miles from where lava is currently flowing into the ocean.  I have no idea that we are that far away and decide to walk that direction in the hopes of seeing something.  As I said, silly me.

Yep, that looks like a long walk doesn't it?  Well, it gets worse.  After about 15 minutes of walking, we reach where the lava crossed the road in 2003 and now have to walk over it to continue on.




After another 20 minutes of crossing the lava, I realize that this is a lost cause and give up.  Yep - I did.  In the distance, we could see the steam from the lava, but goodness it was still a long ways away.  We did have to giggle at the sign that had been placed prior to this event -- it is a bit obvious now that the road is closed.  That is a sturdy sign to have held itself upright through all of this --- although I am not sure it is where it had originally been placed.




Turning back, we arrive back where we had parked and take a few minutes to enjoy (7) the Holei Sea Arch.  It is simply exquisite.  As we watch, the waves are beating against it with a vengeance and I try time and time again to get a good shot.  It is hard to time it just so, but Mister does a better job than me and gets the spray.

In the lower left is the color of the water -- that beautiful turquoise blue.   These pics are not photoshopped  much -- this is what it really looks like.


It is time to turn the car back up 4,000 feet to the entrance of the park.  Along the way, we make a "must stop" at the Thurston Lava Tube (8).


This huge tunnel remains from a subterranean river of lava drained away.  The trail takes you down into the tube and then exits on the other side.  No turning back.  It is well lit but very damp and drippy from the porous nature of the lava.

As we exit the tunnel, the path leading back around is an emerald green.  It is stunning and we walk slowly so that we can savor it for as long as possible.  Sooner than we wish, we arrive back at the car and when we arrive back at the entrance, we take the northern fork of  Crater Rim Drive until we reach the Jaggar Museum and the Kilauea Caldera Overlook (9).  There is a fume cloud visible in the caldera and if it were dark, we would be able to see a red glow from the lava below.





It is getting late and so we decide to end our day here, but not without one last stop at the Steam Vents (10).  It is rainy and getting very cold so the steam from these vents feels absolute amazing, but also gets me damp and I know I will wind up colder in the long run.  This has been a great day and I would love to stay until dark and see the lava glow, but to be honest, I am beat and it is time to go.



Our destination for the night is the city of Hilo and a bed and breakfast located in an older couples home.  It is called Holmes Sweet Home and they instantly make us feel at home.  We ask for a suggestion for dinner and are told about Cafe Pesto so after a short rest, that is where we are off to.  The food and entertainment were both wonderful and we returned ready to collapse into our cozy bed.  Night all.