Saturday, April 28, 2018

France - Day 8 & 9 - Paris and Travel Home

Oh dang.  It's technically our last day of vacation.  It always stinks when this day comes around.  I want to keep going.  Can I stomp my feet and scream?  Will anyone care?  Well, get up Mister -- let's get as many hours our of the day as we can.

Our path takes us down the same street as the other day and one of the things in Europe that I simply love is the small shops that people visit daily.  Since we are in BNB's, our rooms have been people's homes.  We have seen how small the kitchens and refrigerators are.  It's obvious that they shop often and the stores back that up.  I LOVE the specialties too ---- pastries, produce, meat, bread, etc.  We have passed stores such as these each day, but today I will share my view.




Each shop has displayed their items so beautifully that it begs you to enter and look around in the hopes that you will find something you just can't live without.  I can definitely see the value in this method and wish I had this opportunity back home.

My parents owned a neighborhood store many, many years ago and I remember seeing people walk down the street with little fold up carts behind them.  Now, I am seeing this again and know that they are filling those rolling backs with goodies for the next couple of days.


My sweetie is still not up to par but a quick pop into the bread shop nets us a lovely baguette to munch on as we walk along.


The public spaces are filling and people are gathering for some relaxing time together.  Yep, a ping-pong table takes center stage of a lovely park.  Shops are all around and homes are above those.  It's an "all-inclusive" neighborhood.


As we pass Cirque, D'Hiver, I am saddened that I cannot look inside.  It is supposed to be absolutely gorgeous.  We don't see a current show listed so can't even see if tickets are available.  Moving on and down into the metro station.  We are en route to a whole new area today.  It is called the Marais and contains more pre-Revolutionary lanes and buildings than anywhere else in the city.  This area is not supposed to be as touristy and we've been told it looks much the way it did in the mid 1800's.

Rising from the metro, our view instantly fills with Place de la Bastille.  At one time there was a fortress that later became a prison on this site.  The monument on the site has a gilded statue of liberty and is a symbol of France's struggle for democracy.  Have you see Les Miserables?  Yep, all about right here.


Ooooh, my hunger is once again in full force and I spot a produce shop, netting me a lovely cup of fresh cut fruit.  Now, where were we?  I can walk and eat at the same time.  Honest.

Wandering down rue St. Antoine, my eyes are darting everywhere as I  point toward the entrance to our next destination (yes, that arch in the background), Mister only has eyes for the car.  Go figure.


On the other side of the arch is Place de Vosges.  What a great square!  There are nine houses per side and the two highest were for the king and queen but were never used.  All the brickwork is red and was constructed in 1605, calling it "Place Royal."  It became Paris' most prestigious neighborhood and was a magnet for the rich and powerful.  The fountain in the center can still be used to fill water bottles and as I'm trying to take it all in, I turn around and my dear sweetheart is once again helping others by taking a group picture for them.

Louis XIII, on horseback, is center stage.  I have to laugh as we are kind of following one of Rick Steve's walks and his comments here are that it is as if he is saying, "Look at this wonderful square my dad built."  Perfect.

Some greats have lived here, including Victor Hugo, who wrote Les Miserables.


Exiting the square, we continue on and enter back into the current time.  The streets are busy and full of fun interactions everywhere.  Some doorways lead into courtyards and I decide to peek into one of them.  Oh what an interesting find for me.  Pure luck.  It appears to be a fabric store.

I have quite a few friends who live in other countries and they all comment on the prices of fabric.  It all appears to be true.  The bolts on the table are all about $28.00 a meter.  Even if I wasn't carrying everything on my back, I don't think I would indulge.  Besides, I'm being good this year.


We are on the hunt for the Carnavalet Museum and along the way spot the Temple du Marais in the distance.  It is only open to the public during certain hours, thus it is a no go for us.  Dang.


Once we locate the museum, it appears it is closed for renovations.  Well, shoot.  A nearby sign lists the Picasso Museum and a quick Google search nets us the location.  Detour time.  If we can't get into one, there is always another.  OMG.  This place is also absolutely huge.  It seemed hidden at the end of a lane, surrounded by large homes but perhaps that was all an illusion and they were really more museums.

Do you remember the Guernica that I couldn't photograph in Spain?  The original?  Well, this museum has a copy and I can take all the pictures I want.  TA-DA ---


The struggle is real for me.  Some Picasso is tough.  However, I am attempting to keep an open mind and allow myself to take the time to understand.  Different works and different time periods in his life appeal to me more than others.  This one, entitled, "Nature morte a la lampe" or "Still Life With a Lamp" has a palette I enjoy, making it easier for me to study it.  It is actually a Pre-Guernica piece.

Another room has another Guernica piece all done in wood.  That's right, these pieces are cut from different woods and put together.  Even if I don't care for the vision itself, I do enjoy the craftsmanship.


Mister reminds me to remember to look and this time I spot an interesting light fixture and as you follow my eyes down, next up is a statue that the word "interesting" applies to as well.


Picasso himself.


Unexpected detours while traveling can turn out to be gems and this one certainly was.  Yay us.  However, we now need to backtrack to where we left the path, as I still want to visit some areas we had planned on.  It doesn't take too long and we are once again in rue Pavee and enter into the Jewish Quarter.  At one time, this was the largest Jewish area in Western Europe, and although it is Saturday, we do see a few people moving about.  The Agoudas Hakehilos synagogue comes into view, along with several constituents.  This 1913 building is not open to the public and appears absolute filthy from the outside.


As we turn onto rue des Rosiers, so named for the roses that once lined the city wall, a delightful eclair shop stops me in my tracks.    Come drool with me.


Bonbons too!!!  Get me out of here before I not only spend a ton, but eat way too many calories.


Focus, girl, focus.  An original sign on a building says, "Hammam Saint Paul."  It was once a Turkish Bath, but now just another shop.  I love that they kept this history though.


Right across the street, I can hear a saxophone playing and focus my view that direction.  It's a very young man and he is doing great and earning himself a few euros.  I snap a picture but wish I had hit the video instead as he really was wonderful.

I absolutely think he is worth of a reward.  What a great way to get your practice time in and have a little something to show for it other than more expertise.  Oh stop it, I know the expertise should be enough, but I admire his "chutzpah."

At the next intersection, we find ourselves in a small neighborhood that the locals call the "Pletzl" or "Little Place."  It is filled with kosher restaurants and various Mediterranean delights.  I'm thinking it's lunch time and what could be more authentic than here?


Chez Marianne is selected as they have a walk-up window for falafel to go.  Perfect.  While Mister waits in line, I go scope out the area in the hopes of locating a spot to sit and enjoy the atmosphere while imbibing.

Fortunately for me, a bench opens up and we are able to sit and relax a bit.  Check out my view of the mixing of buildings in the background?  Isn't that crazy.  Let's just connect this with this and we'll have more space.  I know this all was done during a terrible time in history and I understand why, which makes it hard, but at the same time, it is indeed fascinating.

With happy tummies (yes, even my sweetheart ate), we continue on our way and turn onto rue Ste. Croix.  Look that one up yourself, but the interesting thing that we spot is the way an ad campaign is being launched.  I promise it is effective as every person takes a second glance to see what it is about.  They line the walk for the entire block on both sides, not saying a word.



At the end of the road, the colorful pipes of the Pompidou Center come into view.  Yep, our next stop.  If you think people were unhappy over a glass diamond at the Louvre, oh what this neighborhood must of thought when this was built.

Nearby are fountains that are entitled, "Homage to Stravinsky."  Each sculpture represents one of his scores.  These are so whimsical and unique that I just giggle as I walk around the pond they are encased in.  Also, really note the changes in architecture and yet how it all works together.  Love, love, love.


Loving the museum pass --- we simply left many others hanging out in line.  Once inside, this sculpture greet us and I am a bit leery of this place but am putting on my "open mind" attitude.

It is called "Invitation" by Daniel Firman and is a fairly recent work.  It is a self-portrait in which "the artist encumbered himself with as many miscellaneous objects as he could carry, then, having set these down, took a molding of his body in the position it assumed, the result then being dressed.  the sculpture thus represents a trace, an experience become object."

Mister has to go and drop the backpack, so I wait and watch the children's area.  Yes, what a concept.  Leave your child to discover art and go enjoy the museum.  Everyone wins.  There are caretakers and the space is enclosed by glass walls.  They have a giant screen that paints with their motions to add in entertainment.



Escalators are ensconced in tubes up the side of the building and we travel up to the 5th floor, enjoying the view below at the same time.

This floor has an open air section including sculptures in a reflection pool and overlooks the city.  The only downside is that is it dang chilly out today and windy.  Combine those two and unpleasant comes to mind plus I'm wearing a dress again --- the whole Marilyn Monroe issue comes to play.




Onto the exhibits.  The first one to grab my attention is by Matisse.  Luxe, calme et volupte, (1904) translates to Calm Luxury of Pleasure.


Next grab comes from an untitled piece by Robert Delaunay (1912).  I can see this as a quilt.


At the end of this section is another outdoor sculpture garden.  My own artistic side is apparently trying to emerge as I photograph this.  What am I trying to get?  Well, exactly this.  I succeed and love it.


The next room has a piece that intrigues me.  I really want to send it to my ex-husband as he demolished an upright piano of mine once on accident as it tipped out of the back of his truck.  I think it's funny -- he could have perhaps become rich with the leftovers.  Named, "Chopin's Waterloo," by Arman.  One I will remember.


Another for the quilt brain and I didn't even glance at the artist.  My bad.


Well, that was a sample of what we saw and talked about while here.  We are back outside and in the plaza out front.  Now you can see the moving escalators I was talking about earlier AND the area with the reflection pool.


I am so ready for a break.  Where is a coffee shop?  Please.

Ah, that is so much better.  Let's just hang here for a bit and enjoy the street scenes.  I even think dessert is in order.  Mister says he will share with me and so we order, but TWO are delivered.  Oh wow.  I will have enough calories today for the rest of the week.  That means we need to continue walking.  We have finished what was set for today and now can fill in with whatever we wish.

Mister suggests that we metro back to Notre-Dame super quick and make it to the Archaeological Crypt that lies below the plaza and the entrance is 100 yards directly in front of the cathedral.  Absolutely, that sounds perfect.  Another use of the museum pass coming right up.

We arrive with barely an hour to spare before it closes.  Read fast, my love.

Two thousand years of dirt and debris have raised the city's altitude.  "In the crypt we see remains of the many structures that have stood on this spot in the center of Paris:  Roman buildings that surrounded a temple of Jupiter; a wall that didn't keep the Franks out; the main medieval road that once led grandly up the square to Notre-Dame; and even a 19th century sewer."  I do the best I can with the pictures as it is pretty dark inside.  Holograms around the room help one to see how it might have actually looked originally.






One section even includes The Foundling Home.  This was the site of the enormous Hospice des Enfants-Trouves.  This was not necessarily a children't hospital, per se.  It was more of a reception place for children that had been abandoned and left for the public to raise.



Here is where one of the modern images help to really understand what stood here.

It's all crazy interesting but we take too long and they are soon hurrying everyone along their way as it is nearing closing time.  Oh well, that's how it goes sometime.  We still, move as slow as possible so that we can read as much as we can before becoming those annoying Americans.  Actually, in our favor, I think more people think we are Irish.  So be it.

One last glace and it's out the door we go.  Just think about what we've seen though.  An entire city built on top of another city and perhaps repeated several times.  It certainly gives one pause.


Back at ground level, we both wonder if it is too late to do the tower at Notre-Dame and we discover that had we left the crypt when told, we could have.  We miss it  by 10 minutes.  Oh well, another glance at the gargoyles and new plan making.

The "let's just explore" option is taken and we head back to the Left Bank.  Where will our feet take us this evening?  Now, THIS is an interesting restaurant.  The food is outside and one can select it ahead of time.  Yes, we are on the street.



Rounding a corner just among beautiful corner buildings delivers a glimpse of tents down the street.  Woohoo --- a street market. Ooooh, fresh cheese.  Now I really wish we had more days.  I would get a few types to walk around and nibble on.  Cheese is one of my absolutely favorites -- as long as it is not stinky or BLUE.  That is just wrong.

Up next, escargots.  Um, another no from me.  Oh Sherri, where are you?


Nougat.  Now here is something I can get behind.  In front of.  Beside.  Whatever it takes to put some of this deliciousness in my mouth.

We have not purchased a single thing to take home with us except Mister's necessity hat and decide this will be the perfect treat and Mom H. will be in heaven with it.

After trying several flavors, we settle on plain, pistachio, ginger and salted caramel.  Yep, a bit of nougat is going home in the backpack -- and yes, it weighs quite a bit.  We'll make it happen.

Next up is Churros and dried fruits.  The white in the foreground is coconut and dang wonderful.


The next corner brings the Sorbonne into view.  Where are we?


Okay, believe it or not, we have once again wound our way into the touristy area and grab a bite to eat, giving a savory crepe a try.  Not a big fan of it, but we do eat it -- shared plate and decide to find dessert elsewhere.

Mister finds a great little street cafe with a nice vibe to sit and enjoy our last night in Paris.  He orders Champagne and sorbet, making sure a candle completes the effect.  Ahhhh, love this man so much.

Our server helps with a picture and I have to say --- it's the perfect ending to our day.  Not the best light, but the moment is all that matters.  Nice, right?


The walk back to the room is slow and easy.  We are savoring the lights and feel one last time.  Even the moon is playing along nicely.


9th  We have an early morning trip to the airport, via the train and as we leave the room, discover that is has been raining.  While it leaves the wee hours very beautiful, we are appreciative of it waiting until our trip is over.  We have had delightful weather, for the most part, and could not have asked for more.

No smiles, as we are leaving, but a good-bye shot to the plaza near us.  Great memories have been made and I can't wait to return to Europe.  Different places and experiences are just around the corner and waiting to be found.

Terminal board.  Wow.


Mister says that our terminal is in the "old" section of the airport.  It is shaped like some kind of UFO and before you know it, we are saying farewell to France.  Ahhh, those beautiful yellow fields are the last thing I see before the clouds envelop us.

We have another 9 hour flight --- ugh.  Movies, stitchery, and food take up the time.  Sleep is harder to achieve but some nodding off does occur.  Perhaps the IPA helps.


Our welcome back into the U.S. is not pleasant and I so wish it were different, emulating other countries, but it is what it is.  I'll not go into it here, but truly unhappy.  We have a long layover in Philadelphia but through Mister's tenacity, he scores us seats on an earlier flight.  Thank you, thank you, thank you to the American airlines ladies who went above and beyond to accommodate us.

Home and on the train before it stops running, it is still midnight before we can shed our clothes and fall into bed.  Can you say exhausted?  This day has be sooo long and not near as much fun as all the other days logging miles.

A quick read of my Fitbit the next morning lets us know exactly what took place.  There are an additional 8k steps on Sunday that won't show on the screen but definitely walked a bit.  Yay us.  Not to shabby for a couple of people around 60 years of age.  Until next time -- Thanks for following along on our journey.

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