Monday, April 23, 2018

Spain - Day 3 - Travel to Barcelona

Six a.m. and we have to say good-bye to Madrid.  It's kind of sad because we love it here but more adventures await in Barcelona.  The train station is pretty empty as we arrive.  Hmmm -- lesson learned.  We do NOT have to be at the trains an hour early like airports.  Fifteen minutes is all that is required.  Got it.

Everyone just hangs out near the departure board until the train arrives and the track is posted.  Then it's off to the gate and down to the track.  Aren't they sleek trains?  Within the 15 minute, the train is boarded and off.




We are seated in the "quiet" coach - number 8.  No, we didn't ask for it, but dang it is nice.  Barcelona Sants is our destination and there is a sign right in front that keeps us posted.  Now to sit back and watch the countryside go by.  I have never traveled via a high-speed train and am interested in just what that means.  Within 30 minutes, I know.


And the countryside starts up.


Do these people look tired?  We partied pretty late in Madrid last night and the alarm went off dang early.  Where is that little cafe car?  Ahhh --- a quick pick me up and we are ready to go.  This is a fairly short trip -- 2 1/2 hours to feast on the Spanish lands.  At every glace there are bright yellow fields.  These are rape seed which is used to make canola oil.


Little villages pop up and my eyes just can't take it all in.  At the speed we are going, they zip by pretty quick.  Pictures through windows are never the best, but I tried to grab a few to share.



In what seems like no time at all, we are in Barcelona.  I'm saying that with all seriousness because you are watching outside, walking around, grabbing something in the dining car, and other various activities.  Time flies.  I loved the quiet car -- when people received a phone call, they went to the enclosed area between cars to speak and our coach stayed peaceful.  Perfect.

To top it all off --- a harpist in the underground metro corridor.  We are en route to the Drassanes stop, right at the waterfront as our room is pretty much on the Ramblas -- just one block off.  As we come into the light once again, the entire Ramblas is covered in a book fair festival.  One booth does catch my eye as the journals all have handmade covers.  It makes me wonder if I should return to a handwritten journal.


We have dropped the bags and are returning to where we entered and start our walk from there.  (Pictures of room later).  As we approach the Balearic Sea, which Barcelona sits near, I look up to the top of the Parish of St. Joseph and Santa Monica to see nuns out enjoying the atmosphere as well.  Nice view.

My eye catches the Museu de Cera hidden down a passageway.  What is this, you ask?  Why, it's a wax museum.  No,we are no going in, but what a cool building hidden away - look close, it's all the way to the back.

Up next is the Military Government Building.


We are having to adapt to some language changes here.  In Madrid, everyone spoke Spanish and Mister has a fairly good grasp on it.  In Barcelona, it is Catalan and very different.  The Catalonian history is fascinating and we are watching history be made here as they once again attempt to be their own country.

Looking towards the water from the Government Building stands the Columbus Monument.


We are now at the edge of the sea.  It's a beautiful day and part of me wants to continue on and find water to play in, but I'd also like to come back here in the evening and walk along the shore.  There's only so much time and so much to see.


As we turn around, a group of school children are en route to the monument.  It looks like a field trip for sure.  I love how they are all out walking and holding hands, right smack dab through the busy Ramblas.


Water fountains are a BIG thing here.  Many of them are in places where the locals used to come to fill their water containers.  They have maintained this history and many still find the fountains to be refreshing as well as a great social gathering spot.

We are on our way up the Ramblas, and come across Placa Reial.  This square is filled with palm trees and has such a peaceful ambiance to it.  Barcelona was home to Antoni Gaudi, a great architect who introduced Modernism to Catalonia.  This square holds his first public works, two colorful helmeted lampposts.  It's an inkling of what the city will hold as we move around.  I see knowledge coming my way.


As we walk down the Ramblas, we are right on the edge of the Barri Gotic area.  A quick peek down a nearby street(?) shows just how close these building are to each other.


The Liceu Metro Station is the center of the Ramblas - midway between the waterfront and Placa de Catalunya.  It also hold the Opera House and as we walk up, an aria is being sung and it's just so wonderful.  We are able to peek into just the entrance but it looks glorious.

All of the buildings are so playfully ornamented and I can't take pictures of them all, but this one is a Chinese dragon holding a lantern and it decorates a former umbrella shop - can you tell?

The tummies are grumbling a bit and a recommended tapas bar is located right down the road.  En route Mister spots beer tabs and a detour to the pub is requested.  Looking at me results in an instantaneous head nod.  Of course.  What a great little spot.


This menu with the beer cocktails led us to think we could create some of these ourselves at home.  It's definitely worth a try.


Ya gotta admit, these look divine.


Now, back to the original destination before our wonderful detour.  Taverna Basca Irati is just a few doors away and this place is jamming.  It is THE place to be.

The tapas are incredible and I just wander down and pick one right after the other.  Mister grabs a couple glasses of wine and we are set for a few minutes.  Really! It only lasts about 10 minutes and I am off to find more treats.  Look at these tiny pancakes.  Love, love, love these.


On the path again,  I have to stop and laugh at my sweetheart.  The second day of the trip he was lost as to how to control his money safely.  He had this little pouch he was keeping in his shirt pocket but that caused nervousness.  I suggested hooking it to his belt and just dropping down the front of his pants.  At one point he declares me a genius.  Is he the last to know that?  However, this resulted in many little moments just like the one to the left.  Trying to get money in and out without making it totally obvious.  It works really great though and we feel safe at all times.

Now that our appetites are temporarily satiated, we can go into the La Boqueria and enjoy all the eye candy without the desire to buy everything in sight.  I LOVE it here.  Oh my.  There are glorious booths everywhere.



At the Pinotxo bar, Juan and his family have been here forever and have claimed a fine reputation for themselves.


Saffron - at such good prices.  Wow.



Children are the same around the world.  Just look for the candy bins and you will find them selecting the perfect pieces.

All the fresh food is remarkable.  I am especially in love with the ham selections.

Yes, there are two pictures of two different booths but one shows the prices up close and that may be of interest to some.  You may have to zoom in, but all are in Euros per kilogram.  Just look at the range.



Fresh flowers are abundant.  Oh the roses.  I love the roses.  There is even a block on the Ramblas that is called Rambla of Flowers.


Betlem Church comes into view but we continue on.  A little further is a passageway that leads to part of a Roman Necropolis that was discovered in the 1950's.  It is from the second and third centuries and a raised walkway provides views of 70 tombs showing that Romans built their cemeteries outside the city walls.  The tombs are arranged along either side of the Roman road and in a line, almost like a retinue that would bring the deceased closer to the afterlife.  Most of the tombs are "cupae", a simple funeral monument.

The Vila de Madrid square they lie in is the restulf of an urbanistic project.  A large part of the site was occupied by the Convent of Saint Teresa of the Discalced Carmelites.  The community, formed by seven nuns, was established in the district in 1588.  In 1601 the convent's church was constructed and during the civil war, some of the convent's underground passages were used to build an air raid shelter.  In 1944 it was decided to reorganize the area and in 1958, the necropolis was discovered.  So, so fascinating to me.


As we enter the Placa de Catalynya, the first thing I see is an unusual statue.  It is an upside-down staircase honoring a former president.


At the far end of the square I spot gardens filled with statues and aim for that area.  It's time for a sit-down and some people watching.


Within moments of sitting down, a flock of pigeons descend upon us.  They are landing right at our feet, thus requiring me to wander into their midst.  I am not trying to hold one or have my picture taken with them on my arms as many are, but it is kind of fun to wander in their midst.

People watching at it's best.  This is a great spot to rest.


I want to explore the Barri Gotic area for awhile so we leave the square using a different route.  The Eglesia de Santa Anna comes into view and we are quick to enter as it is open today.  The octagonal wooden roof is simply wonderful



Outside, the cloister surrounds a lovely, leafy courtyard and boasts a beautiful bell tower.


A little further down, there is a blue and yellow fountain with tile work depicting ladies carrying jugs of water.  This was once the last stop for watering horses before leaving town and as recently as 1940, one in nine Barcelonana received water from fountains just like this.


Above us to the left is a frieze designed by Picasso in 1960.  He loved this area of town and spent most of his early years here.


Directly in front of us, stand two Roman Towers flanking the street.  Once upon a time they guarded the entrance to the ancient city of Barcino.


Ahhhh --- The Cathedral of Barcelona is just down the street.  As the square opens up, it is so beautiful and regal.  I can't wait to go inside, sit and just enjoy the quiet for a wee bit.


Although it looks like a big line, it really only takes us about 3 minutes to enter the building.  As we are standing right below the entrance -- take a peek upwards.  Check out all the robed statues in the arch itself.


Inside is absolutely stunning.  Enjoy.




We go straight to the back of the cathedral and find the elevator that takes us to the roof.  Wow --- not only are we up close and personal with the towers, but the views of the city go on forever.




In the distance, you can see La Sagrada Familia -- one of tomorrow's destinations.


Another tower and a look at the elevator housing that brought us up here.

Back down into the chapel to look at everything a bit closer now.






The passageway leads us into Placa De Saint Jaume.  There are roses everywhere and have been abundant all over town.  Remember the book festival I mentioned earlier?  Well, we have been educated on it's significance.  On April 23, in Catalonia, the World Book Day becomes an especially romantic festivity.  The people in Catalonia celebrate the day of their patron saint, Sant Jordi, with a curious tradition.  Couples exchange gifts: a book for the men and a rose for the women.  This comes about as a mixture of traditions from different periods.  It coincides with the fact that Sant Jordi has been the patron saint of Catalonia since the 15th century and also from the famous legend of St. George and the dragon and the old medieval tradition of visiting the Chapel of Sant Jordi in the Government Palace, where a rose fair or "lovers" fair used to take place.  This is why Sant Jordi is also the patron saint of lovers in Catalonia.


Through this plaza, we come to the Roman Temple of Augustus and we step inside for a peek at the columns.  These are from A.D. 1.  Did you read that right?  Crazy and I am positive it is the oldest piece of architecture that I have seen in person.

Our walk has almost come to an end today but we are in Place del Rei.  The buildings that enclose this square once housed Spain's kings and queens.  The central section, topped by a six-story addition, was the core of the Royal Palace.

The Viceroy's Palace is nearby and it has a courtyard that we stop to glance inside.  It is Renaissance in style and contains a staircase with a coffered wood ceiling.  Temporary art displays are in the various rooms and the local couples are enjoying the space by having their photograph taken.


It's time for another break.  Fortunately, a treat shop is right beside us as we exit the area.



We settle on a meringue morsel and settle down along a rail to enjoy and I cannot tell you how yummy this is.  Oh my.  It's a regular meringue with coconut and it is the freshest coconut I have ever had the pleasure of enjoying.  Pure delight.

As we are sitting, a young man is going to a LOT of trouble trying to lock his bike up.  It takes him forever and I find it so amusing until my sweetheart points out what happens when you don't lock it up correctly.

Well, alrighty then.

I want to go back to the room, rest for a little bit before going out for dinner.  As we enter the street we are on, we come to Palau Guell, designed by Gaudi in 1890.  Looking up, we see the crazy cool smokestacks that he designed for the roof.


The front is adorned with this lovely creature(?) too.


Ahhh, here we are.  Home sweet home.  Yep, this is the entrance to our place.  Mister and I laugh each time we look at it.

Inside we have a room and private bath.  Nothing else required.  My shoes are off, feet are up, and I'm checking out rooms for the next leg of our trip while catching up on what is going on at home.  Life is good.

An hour is all that is required and I'm ready to go again.  Let's head down to the waterfront for a nice walk along the shore.  I've waited all day for this.

The old Port of Barcelona building stands regally overlooking the entire place.  How beautiful.


We continue walking and the sun is starting to set.  Soooooo beautiful



We cross a pedestrian bridge to reach the other side of the small bay and get a little closer to the sea itself.


Oh my.  The maritime museum out here is crazy cool.  I would love to have another day just to check out these ships.  Well, not these precisely as some are privately owned massive yachts, but others in the area.


Back up on the other side, we've found another main avenue, lighted for the evening and filled with couples out walking.


Food --- we need to find food.  Stepping into a restaurant, we grab a table, sit down and prepare to decompress from a very busy day.  This place is interesting and we order a couple glasses of wine.  They are poured instantly but somehow manage to be forgotten -- sitting lonely up on the bar, letting us drool.

No worries, soon we have received them and our lovely tapas for dinner.  Nice, light, and just what we need.


That's it for tonight.  It's straight back to the room and drop into bed.  Tomorrow is another day in beautiful Barcelona.  Until then . . .

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