Tuesday, April 24, 2018

Spain - Day 4 - Barcelona

Barcelona!!  Day two and we are ready to roll.  Into the tiny elevator we go.  I'm not joking.  If we both have full backpacks, we are wall to wall snug. 

In the first shot, he is outside the elevator, the second one has the door closed behind us and we are looking in the mirror.  Tight quarters.

Now, onto much more entertaining things than an elevator.

How about the view of our door again?  Hahahahahaha.




We are going to head out in a different direction this morning and as soon as I cross the street to start walking, I spot a scene in a shop that looks so fun.

The older gentleman is absorbed in his painting while a black and white cat gingerly makes it's way across the pottery strewn table.  I can't help but smile at the whole scene.  It's obvious that this occurs frequently as not a stroke of his brush waivers.

A caffeine need has arisen so Mister is quick to locate a satiation spot.  Oooooh --- with small "cafe's" in hand, we are off to the metro.  Hmmm, now we need to drink quick as drinks cannot ride the subway. 


My sweetie has suggested that we go to Montjuic today and I'm thrilled to comply.  This was not even on my radar for today but it sounds wonderful.  As we near the metro and inhale our coffee, another fountain graces the corner.  I do so love these pieces of past and am taken back in time over and over again with each spotting.

Our metro stop includes the funicular.  I have absolutely no idea what that is so pepper my sweetheart with questions.  It turns out it is a rail that uses cable and usually involves ascending or descending a mountainside.  Perfect.  That's just what we are planning and I love new experiences.  I can also add this to my list of travel methods I have used.  We start out underground but soon come into the light and crawl up the mountain.


Upon our exit from the funicular, the next step is a gondola (cable car) ride up the rest of the mountain.  The view of the city is incredible and I want to take it all in.


We are both fascinated by the fact that the cable car does a complete 90 degree turn.


And further up we go.  My head is spinning as try to see each direction.




At the top, a short walk leads us to the castle entrance.  Right before facing it, I grab a glimpse of the water below.


About face.


The moat. It's just so green. 


Once inside, the main plaza has a few open doors containing exhibits.  This one stops both of us cold.  What a great study on perspective.  I am truly fascinated.


How big is this castle?  Peek!!


Up on the roof.  Now for some information.  Montjuic Mountain overlooks both coast and inland and has been inhabited, exploited and transformed over a period of 10,000 years.  The stone from its quarries was used to erect the Barcelona of Roman times and also largely through to the mid-20th century.  Montjuic harbors all the contrasts of its relationship with the city and of each historical period.  Times of war and peace as well as oppression and recreation.  This mountain, militarized and hated for centuries on account of the repression exacted from its castle, was also a site of civic and popular activities driven by its function as the city's great cultural center.

Before the castle, there was a lighthouse on top of Montjuic, documented in the year 1073.  The tower was inhabited by a look-out - a sailor by trade - whose duty was to warn the city (by sail signals during the day and by fire at night) of any approaching hostile vessels or signs of a possible war.  At the beginning of the Catalan Revolt, a walled small fort was erected around the lighthouse.  This actually heralded the beginning of the militarization of the mountain and of its importance as a defensive watchtower.  Later, in the Nine Years War (1689-1697), the armies of the Spanish and French crowns clashed in Barcelona and a fortress taking up the entire esplanade was erected.

We have to laugh at the simplicity of signs here.  Whereas, in America there would be either fencing or barriers, here they believe that each person has some intelligence.

Seriously, what more does one really need?  Back down from the roof we go, and into another area of the castle.  Along the way, a peek back into the plaza.  Lovely.


One of the halls.


During the Civil War, from 1936 to 1938, Montjuic Castle was occupied by the Committee of Antifascist Militias.  In view of the fact that modern warfare had rendered it obsolete and ineffective as a fortification, it was used to hold prisoners from the Francoist side, counting insurgents from the armed forces, members of right wing parties, and religious collaborators with the Movimiento.  Some of these prisoners also lived out their last days in the castle: 248 were executed in the Santa Elena Moat.

As soon as the national army occupied the Castle in January 1939, the Santa Elena Moat was made into a place of remembrance dedicated to "the heroes and martyrs of the Glorious National Movement."  Shortly thereafter, a proper shrine was built to honor those "who have fallen for God and for Spain." 

We've come to the end of our time here and must work our way back to the exit.  Along the way, I get a chance to peek into some windows and by using the camera flash, another world comes into light.  In the nineteenth century, Montjuic Castle became the main military prison in the city, the place of incarceration and execution of many citizens arrested for defending their land.  Many notable figures were held in its dungeons on the sea-facing wall.


We are once again back where we entered.  The drawbridge is down and yet the feeling is still very time centric.  This was such a great plan today.  Love it. 

Looking back where we walked from.  Just think of the things these walls have seen.  Oh my. 

As we leave, I spot some rows of roses that are just plain incredible.  Wow.  As I get closer, we discover that they are not roses at all.  We're not sure what they are, but love them anyway.


Cable car down the mountain, funicular back into the city, metro to The Eixample, which means expansion.  This part of the city was a progressive plan in which everything would be made accessible to everyone.  Each 20-block-square district was to have its own hospital and large park, each 10-block-square would have its own market and general services, and each 5-block-square would house its own schools and day-care centers.  The plan never really took place, but the Eixample was an urban success.  Rich and artsy big shots bought property along the grid and the richest landowners built as close to the center as possible.  While following the height, width, and depth parameters, they built as they pleased - often in the trendy new Modernista style.  Barcelona is a unique variation on the common grid plan:  it snipped off the building corners to create light and spacious eight-sided squares at every intersection. 

I LOVE the wonderful iron works that hold the city lights.  You have to look close as the lamppost is right in the way.


Even the store fronts here are wonderfully creative.  Imagine living in one of those flats.  While waiting for a bus to move, I spot the best little bench, right by the light.  Scroll back up --- yep there it is - right at the base of the iron works.


Antoni Gaudi is among the architects that created wonders here.  Casa Mila stands proudly across the street from us.  It is indeed unique.  There is a roller-coaster of melting-ice-cream eaves.  It was Gaudi's last major work before dedicating his final years to the Sagrada Familia.


A few blocks down, is the Block of Discord.  All of the mansions look as though they are trying to outdo one another. Another Gaudi work is here -- Casa Batlo.  It is green-blue and ceramic-speckled along with shell-like balconies.  The tiled roof has a soft-icecream-cone turret topped with a cross and the roofline resembles a dragon's back  Gaudi based the entire place on the popular legend of St. Jordi slaying the dragon.



Right next door is Casa Amatler.  Look for the gargoyles, tracery and bay windows.  We popped inside the door to see the elaborate entrance hall.



A few more doors away is Casa Lleo Morera.  What a mix of styles.  I love the balconies of rosettes and tracery.  What should you look for?  How about griffins, angels, and fish.



At the base of the home is beautiful mosaic work columns.  Wow.


As we return to the start of our walk here, I actually spot a McDonald's I want to peek into.  It is really upscale and here is the entry counter.  We are definitely NOT in the USA.


We have tickets for entry to La Sagrada Familia in a little over an hour so it is time to head there.  My sweet man is super excited for this.  It is the one thing he had on his "must do" list.  Our metro stop is right on the corner and this is our first sight:




With a bit of time still, the option is to find some food and a quick pizza fills the need.


Mister is chomping at the bit for time to move.  We are back outside awaiting our turn, thus more pictures.



I look up and Mister is across the street.  Well, not really.  He is actually IN the street . 


Here is what he sees


I finally drag him across the street to a park to wait.  It's killing him --- truly. 


A view of the finish -


Okay --- we have our audio guides are are ready to roll.


This is one of the entry doors.  Check out the detail.



In we go --- Oh my.  I have to say that this is pure peace, serenity, and beauty all at once.  There is a hush even though a lot of people are here.  To say that this is incredible is an absolute understatement.







Looking down into the crypt where Gaudi is interred.



The Sacrisity.




All of the individual parts are made ahead in molds and then worked from them..


These are the 3D machines that make the forms.


And that's it.  We are finished.  This has been one of the most fascinating days of my life.  They are hoping to have this finished by 2026, 100 years after Gaudi passed away.  If so, I would so love to return and see it completed.

Our list for Barcelona is complete.  Mister has some names of local breweries and that is how we will finish out here.  First up is the Garage and it's a great place.  The beer is wonderful and the atmosphere sublime.


Our next stop is at Naparbier - again, super delicious.


Pretty.


The evening is spent in the company of two gentlemen from the U.K. and a delightful time is had by all.  We have exchanged cards and perhaps will get together again on our next trip to Europe.


Back to the tapas bar for a snack before bed.  Mister finds some people needing a picture and offers to help.  Par for the course.

A few tapas later, we are heading back to the house.  It is late and we have an early train.  Barcelona has been wonderful but it is time to move on.

One last glance at Gaudi's Palau Guell, our next door neighbor.  Night all --- see ya on the way to France.

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