France - Day 7 - Paris

Good morning Paris!!  We are not sleeping in today.  The agenda is FULL and I'm hoping to check a few things off the list.  We have one "have to" be at a certain time, but other than that ---- let's put the walking shoes on.  I have opted for a dress and sandals today.  Why?  Because it is Paris.  Isn't that enough of a reason?  Starting out, we pass a juice shop and, oh my, that sounds great.  I get a lovely "smoothie" and we are once again on our way.  The first stop is the metro and then off to Notre-Dame.   See, the dress works.  Hello Metro.

Once we are back into the light, it is the Hotel de Ville stop.  Sure enough, there it is.  Is it a hotel?  Nope.  It actually houses the city administration and has since 1357.  That's a LONG time.  We can't even get our city admin to stay put for 50 years.  What a cool building.  Soooooo ornate.

Notre-Dame actually sits on an island in the River Seine and this spot is the literal center physically AND historically of Paris.

Before we arrive, I make a comment to Mister that it's odd he doesn't have a hat on.  He looks at me in shock.  Ooops, it was not intentional and we are going to be out in the sun quite a bit today.  At the next corner are some tourist trap shops.  He actually gets lucky and finds one in the third shop we come to.  Ten dollars later, he has a new "chapeau."  Forward we go.

Ahhh, there it is.  We are now standing right in front of the cathedral and checking out the facade.   This church is dedicated to Mary --- Notre-Dame de Paris translates literally into Our Lady of Paris and she stands front and center of the facade, surrounded by the rose window and flanked by two 200' towers.  In front of the cathedral is a bronze plaque on the ground that says, "Point Zero," indicating the center of France.  It is the point from which all distances are measured.

Looking up, the central portal depicts the end of the world and Christ is sitting on the judgement throne.  Beneath him an angel and demon weigh souls in the balance and the demon cheats by pressing down on the scales.  There is even a flaming cauldron with a sinner diving into it headfirst.

The left portal is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is the only one to have a triangular gable atop it.  It depicts her death, ascension to heaven, and coronation. The door-jamb features full-size statues of Emperor Constantine, an angel, St. Denis, and another angel on the left.  The right houses St. John the Baptist, St. Stephen, St. Genevieve, and Pope St. Sylvester.  Back to the left side -- St. Denis is holding his head in his hands.  It's an interesting story:  When Christianity began making converts in Roman Paris, the bishop of Paris, Denis, was beheaded.  The Romans were trying to make an example to those who considered leaving the Roman gods.  As the story goes, it was hard to keep those early Christians down and Denis simply got up, tucked his head under his arm, "headed" north, paused at a fountain to wash it off, and continued until he found just the right place to meet his maker.  It's a miracle that convinced the Parisians and Christianity gained ground.
Let's go in.

The Rose Window with a teeny Mary and baby Jesus in the very center.

As we are sitting in the nave, enjoying the atmosphere, Mister notices that the priest is lighting the high taper candles on each side.

It's so hard to choose what pictures to share and this is probably too many, but Mom H. will love seeing them here.

One last look back and it's time to exit.  NOW, we discover the beauty of the doors we entered through.

Outside, a glance up at the gargoyles makes me smile.  They are supposed to represent souls caught between heaven and earth but they also function as rain spouts (from the same French root word as "gargle").  I am amused by the one looking down with his head in his hands as though he is either watching us closely OR thoroughly bored with the entire thing.  You decide.

Outside, on the right of the cathedral, Square Jean,XXIII, a nice park inside iron gates.  As we enter, we are able to see the side of the cathedral and as we get to the end of the park, I can finally see the flying buttresses that are part of the architecture of this remarkable building.

The spire is 300' tall and was added in 1860 during the reconstruction. This little park is really quiet considering all the people that surround the building.  We are once again blessed with chiming bells during our visit.

From the back of the building, we turn towards the river and upon reaching the Left Bank, we walk along the river looking for the stairs that lead down to the riverbank.  Finding them, it's a quick walk down and we discover the best view of Notre-Dame.  Wow.

It's now time to check out the Left Bank.  A quick snack to keep me nice and we are on our way.  Mister is still not feeling top notch so it's just me grabbing something here and there.

This area of town is Medieval Paris at it's best.  It is from 1000-1400 and just what I want to see.

The narrow, cobblestone streets all slope towards the river - let's not go into why that was necessary but I'm glad it no longer is.  You can see that we have NOT moved very far from the cathedral and how central to life it was.

St. Severin comes into view and what a different look it has.  This church actually took longer to build than Notre-Dame and is called Flamboyant (flame-like) Gothic.  The short, prickly spires are meant to make this building flicker in the eyse of the faithful.  More gargoyles abide here.

Yes, of course we are going in.  There is a service going on in one of the alcoves so we try to be as quiet as possible and not disturb them.  We pretty much have the place to ourselves right now.  The first thing I notice is the more "modern" looking stained glass windows.  Yes, they remind me of quilts.

It is a much smaller church but does not lack in design or height.

Look at the brickwork.  Oh my.  It's a puzzle.

We continue down Rue St. Severin and come to the skinniest house in Paris.  It is only two windows wide.  Hahahaha, the things people do.

We are now in the Latin Quarter but pretty much just walk through it until reaching Boulevard St. Michel.  As we walk through the cafe-lined, Place St. Andre-des-Arts, we come to Place St. Michel.  This is the traditional core of the Left Bank's district.  As is it morning here, it feels a bit sleepy and rightfully so.  Apparently the Latin Quarter stays up late and sleeps in.

If you read about this place, you will definitely be surprised at it's history and subsequent residents.  The statue at the back is of St. Michel killing a devil but I'm kind of fond of the dragon out front.

We are back at the river and as we look across, the steeple of Sainte-Chapelle stands out.  Mister definitely has this spot on his list so off we go.  The church is undergoing some renovation like it appears most historic buildings are but it is still open.  The security here is pretty tough as the Palais de Justice is right next door.

As we enter, the room is quite small.  Not at all what I expected from such a tall building.  I discover that this is the "basement" and what used for staff and other common folk to worship under a sky filled with painted fleur-de-lis - symbols of the king.

The Royal Christians worshiped upstairs and we enter through a VERY narrow one-way staircase that is bordered on both sides by intricately painted columns.

Oh my, this is where the height is.  Wow.  We are completely surrounded by stained glass windows pretty much the height of the building.  With 15 separate panels and a total of 6,500 square feet (2/3 of it 13th century original)  and more than 1,100 different scenes, most of which come from the Bible --- it is more than the eyes can take in.
The scenes cover the entire Christian history -- from the creation to the end of the world.

Rose Window.

The rugs in the chapel are pretty cool in certain spots.  I try and jockey for position to get a picture of one of those spots.

The doors are open today and we are able to exit onto the balcony.  As I look back, I see the portal and am instantly reminded of the Notre-Dame one.  Oh goodness, they are so similar.  In fact, if I'm truthful, I just got a little confused as I was adding pictures to this blog.  They are correct though.
Look how cool the windows inside are and how dark it is inside even with the doors open.

It is at this point that my sweetheart tells me the last time he was here, the doors were closed and that the effect is just so much more dramatic without sunlight playing a part.  I find a nearby information area with a picture that is take at that time and he is right -- what a difference.  I love that it is nice enough to have the doors open and that I get to see the balcony designs, but what an effect the darkness gives too.

As we exit and walk alongside the chapel, we spot figures from the top that are resting while the restoration takes place.  Yep, resting gargoyles.  How many spirits are being missed?

Our exit gate

And a look back at the Palais de Justice - which we can't get near.

It's time to meet up with our one appointment for the day.  We decide to take the Cite Metro Stop.  This particular stop is one of the 41 original entrances and one of only a few survivors.

But first, there is a flower and plant market right next door and we just can't resist.  Apparently on Sundays, there are bird marketers here as well, but today we are simply delighted with the flowers and plants.

Now, back to the stop.  In we go.

This station is now preserved as a national art treasure with it's curvy, plant-like iron out front and the intense style inside.  It's easy to see why.  DOWN we go --- lots of stairs.  I am amazed at the depth and it reminds me of Cityplace in Dallas.  I know that sounds silly, but dang, our stop is deep as well.  Don't ya just love history.  It still has the sleek, un-adorned look of an original station.

Our destination is simple and we are running late.  How on earth did I screw up?  I am nervous as we are meeting Sherri and Kevin, who have just arrived in Paris.  Yep, how lucky are we to get together with friends while abroad?  We reach the meeting spot a wee bit late, but as luck would have it, so are they.  Woohoo.

As soon as they arrive, the picnic bags are retrieved and we are off to find some grass and a view of the Eiffel Tower.  I actually went into the restaurant and asked for directions so that we could get there quick and easy.  Now, my French is not the best but I KNOW she told me to turn left.  We did and walked about 5 minutes with no sign of the Eiffel Tower.  A quick GPS check shows that we are not going the right way.  What???  Backtracking to the spot we started from, we discover that there is a straight, a left, and one in between.  Hmmmm.  Taking the one in between, it is mere minutes before the tower comes into view and we are in the park.  Yes, now for grass and food AND the ceremonious exchanging of the leggings.  HAHAHAHAHA.  Somehow I went home with her leggings at April retreat and have carted these puppies all over Spain and France and it's time to return them.  In PARIS!!!  Now, if that isn't a memory we can hold, nothing is.

Let's get this picnic started.  Oh my, such great treasures in the bag, including a couple bottles of already opened wine.  I put already opened in there because of Ana.  Too funny.

I am in heaven.  Visiting with dear friends and enjoying another country all at once.  Does it really get any better?

Ah, my friend and her new toy.  We left ours at home this trip, but she is having such fun.

After a couple of hours, we are ready to move on.  However, we have some leftover food that just won't transport well, including some wine.  This group of nearby young adults are the recipient.  Yes, we asked if they were of age.  Did they tell the truth?  Well, that part we just won't ever know, now will we.

It's Louvre time and we are off to the metro once again.  Men and cameras --- worse than me.  Thank you sweetheart -- I LOVE the memories.

In the tunnel is a lady playing Pachelbel Canon in D.  It is one of my all-time favorite pieces and I have to stop and listen.

The station delivers us right to the Louvre.  Oh wow.  I am super excited for this leg of the trip.  The plaza highlights the pyramid I have read about and it is indeed elegant.  However, I can see why the French are not fans of it.  It really doesn't fit the surroundings.

Earlier today, at Sainte-Chapelle, we purchased the museum pass so have no lines to get through and Sherri and Kevin have passes for this time as well.  In we go and what a nice feeling.

The entrance is through the pyramid.  That's pretty cool ---
whether the French
like it or not.

Once inside, Sherri has printed out an entire tour and we are ready to follow.  As long as the specific pieces I wan to see are hit, I'm game for anything.

Are you ready to see some works from the great masters of the past?  Come along.

But first, a restroom stop is required.  Once Sherri and I get there, the line is crazy long.  However, no one is in the "Family" stall, so after saying, "Come on Sis," we are off.  They are really not joking about the family part.  I can't help but take a picture of Sherri trying to dry her hands.  The rest I'll just leave to your imagination.  Our first stop is the Pavillon de L'horloge and it's moat.  Oh goodness.  This is pretty dang sweet.  To be inside what once was the palace moat.  Wow.

Even the great sphinx of Tanis is housed here, possibly dating to 2600 B.C.

We'll just move along here --- not giving commentary on each individual piece.  Except I might have to give a comment on Michaelangelos' Venus de Milo.  It is actually Aphrodite.  Did you know that?  It is also at this point that we get lost.  Hmmm -- the wine?  or the directions in Sherri's printout?  We're not sure but after about 15 minutes of wandering and backtracking, we get back on course once again.  (Psst -- "with your back to the statue" doesn't mean what you think.)

The museum itself is a work of art.

Mister keeps reminding us to look UP.

Not only do we have no idea where we are in the building, but when looking outside at the interior plaza, we realize just how dang big this place is.  Where did we enter?  Somewhere outside this plaza.

The Coronation of Napoleon by David

Oath of the Horatii by David

The Wedding Feast at Cana by Veronese.  This one deserves sharing what I learned.  "This huge canvas once adorned the refectory of the monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore in Venice.  here, Veronese, acclaimed as a colorist and for painting vast, multi-figured scenes, chose to depict Christ's first miracle, performed during the Marriage at Cana.  Working the perspective so as to draw the spectator into the scene, he transposed the biblical episode to his own era, rich 16th-century Venice.  Note the splendor of the fabrics, the sumptuous jewelry, silver and silver-gilt tableware, and the elegant Palladian architecture, which set a magnificent state for this story, which is supposed to have taken place in the home of poor people who ran out of wine during a wedding feast.  In the center, on Christ's right, Mary holds an invisible glass in her hand to show that there is no wine left.  In the right foreground, the figure in yellow pours water that has turned into wine from a jar, a miracle witnessed by the two figures behind him.  A man clad in green hurries towards the newlyweds, on the left in front of the columns, to ask why the best wine was kept for the end of the banquet.  Another reading of the work moves vertically from the symbolic image of the butchers shopping up meat to the hourglass on the musician's table and the dog chewing a bone:  it heralds the 'sacrifice of the Lamb,' the death of Christ, who revealed his true nature by performing this miracle.  But the dogs are also an allegory of fidelity, that of Christians whose whose faith will sweep away the clouds."

We are actually in the room with the Mona Lisa, but because there were so many people there, I chose to do the Wedding Feast first.  Now, I turn around and am able to move in close to her.  Do you really know anything about this other than it is famous?  I didn't.  Here's the scoop:  "It is entitled 'Portrait of Lisa Gherardini, wife of Francesco del Giocondoco del Giocondo.  Acquired by Francis in 1518, acclaimed by artists of the day, La Gioconda only earned her worldwide fame in in the 25th century, more on account of her 'adventures' - theft (1911-14), stoning (1956), travels to the United States 1963, and Tokyo and Moscow (1974) - than her outstanding qualities.  Da Vinci's dazzling, almost magical techniques models the forms through his use of glazes (very diluted, quasi-transparent layers of paint), playing with light and shade effects by making the contours hazy.  Aerial perspective, moving from brown to blue, creates, through the density of the air, an abstract landscape made up of earth and water.  What a pity that the colors darken as the varnish ages:  the sleeves were once saffron yellow.  The model's identity has given rise to the oddest suggestions at times, even going as far as to say she was a man.  It is probably a portrait, begun in Florence between 1502 and 1507, of Monna (Mrs.) Lisa Gherardini del Giocondo.  Her smile could thus be a symbol of her name, 'gioconda' also meaning 'cheerful.'  While this is one of the period's largest portraits, painted on a single, very thin poplar board, it is not an ostentatious image of a rich bourgeoise lady, although her pose and attire and the absence of eyelashes and eyebrows are in keeping with the elegance of her station.  It is above all an ideal portrait, reflecting Renaissance interest in Platonic theory, when the beauty of the body was seen as that of the soul."

More ceilings - and Joan of Arc at the Coronation by Ingres.

We are now visiting more statues by Michaelangelo.

With that, our tour is complete.   Yes, I left out a LOT, but you need to go and take your own tour.  Right?  We end almost where we began.  The inverted pyramid.  Have you read The Da Vinci Code?  If not, I can tell you, it makes us wonder.

We find a spot to rest our weary legs for a few and try to make plans for the rest of the evening.  We finished earlier than we thought and it is still light out.  Mister and I decide to try and squeeze the Arc de Triomphe in today as well and are thrilled that our friends decide to accompany us.

Back to the metro.  It's a fancy one with cool lighting.  Of course, since it's the Louvre.  We exit on the Champs Elysees.  Paris' very own busy shopping district leading to the Arc de Triomphe.

As we get closer, the image clears up and it is indeed quite beautiful and quite large.  Are we really going up in it?

Yep, the museum pass comes through again.  No line, no waiting for any of us.  There's just a few stairs.  Stop please, I need to catch my breath.

We even discover an exhibit about half way up.  Seems odd, but gives a rest again.

It's complete with restrooms and vending machines -- oh and, of course, a gift shop.

Back to the climb and we arrive at the top.  Oooooooh. It's so wonderful.  We have a 360 degree view of Paris.  Perfect.

Yeah -- some proof we were here.  Originally, I thought that perhaps we would be able to see the sunset while up here, but it's at least an hour away and the wind is crazy.  I'm doing all I can not to have a Marilyn Monroe moment up here.  After about an hour, it's time to head back down.  Yes, all those steps again.  Now, we take the time to check out the arch up close and personal.

At the base is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and it's eternal flame.

We are calling it a night and going our separate ways for dinner.  I can't tell you much fun I had today but just know I did.  We'll see you guys back in Texas and until then -- have a great time on your grand adventure in Italy.  We'll be following along with your posts.

A little metro fun before saying good-bye and that's it.

Mister and I search for a spot for dinner close to the apartment, find one, have some dinner and call it a night.

Tomorrow is our last day here and there's still a ton to see.  Night all.