Mister and Lady: Port Day Number Two on Our Big Adventure

Today is Port Number Two and we are in Sydney. Nope, not Australia (wouldn't that have been funny after wandering the seas?), but Nova Scotia. Land is in sight again.

At the moment, it's pretty foggy out and I'm so hoping for a change.

Time to dock.

This time we have a boat that is hooking onto the ropes and bringing the ropes to the end of the pier.

Next, the ramp starts making it's way onto the pier.

Meanwhile -- the boats are still pulling ropes and heading off to moorings in the water.

Once pulled taut --- this happens. New for me.

Time to go ashore - Cameras ready.

As we head into town, we are routed through the pier shops and end at The Big Fiddle. The Big Fiddle celebrates the important role fiddlers and their music have played in the cultural heritage of Cape Breton Island (which is where Sydney is located). Fiddle music was first brought to the Cape Breton by Scottish immigrants. Today's music also features Acadian, Irish and Mi'kmaq influences. Fiddle music flourishes all over Cape Breton Island. The Big Fiddle stands 55.75 feet tall and weighs eight tons. It is made of painted steel and was built over an eight-month period by Cyril Hearn, a Sydney artist and welder.

Into Sydney we go - I have a walking map planned, but things never go to plan so we'll see where the day takes us.

A Land Of Our Own in memory of the immigrants to Cape Breton and an anchor (no information other than it relates to the Merchant Marines).

And - here we go off route. Mister has spotted a church with shutters and wants to check it out. It is St. Patrick's Church Museum. It was originally built as a Roman Catholic Church in 1828 and stands on the former site of a wooden edifice built for the pioneers in 1805. The congregation came from North Sydney, Sydney Mines, Bras D'Or, Low Point and Louisbourg. There's some map work for ya. In 1850 a balcony was added to accommodate the burgeoning population of the area. Due to the increasing size of the congregation, a new church, Sacred Heart , was later built on George Street. Lebanese immigrants worshipped at St. Patrick's until 1950. After that period The Ancient Order of Hibernians took it over until the early 1960's. More research coming my way apparently. The Old Sydney Society began to restore St. Patrick's Church in 1966, and it now serves as a museum devoted to preserving and promoting the culture and heritage of Sydney, Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island. It can also be rented out for events. That's kinda cool.

It is very simple inside.

Love the windows and if I used this prayer chair, I'd never get back up. At least, now with much dignity.

While Mister finishes up inside, I wander across the street to another memorial. The one on the left is for Joseph Frederick Wallet Desbarres 1722-1824 (I have to admit, I LOVE old history). A distinguished military engineer of Huguenot descent, Desbarres served in the British Army in North America during the Seven Year's War, and participated in the capture of Louisbourg in 1758 and of Quebec in 1759. From 1763 to 1773 he was employed by the British Government to survey and chart the coasts of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton and as a result earned great fame as a marine surveyor, second perhaps only to Captain Cook. He was the first Lieutenant Governor of Cape Breton, 1784-87, the founder of Sydney, and Lieutenant Governor of Prince Edward Island, 1804-12. He died in Halifax at the age of 102. Crazy, right? This were rough times and he lived a LONG life. One the right is Sir John George Bourinot 1837-1902. A native of Sydney, Bourinot was a journalist and legislative reporter in Halifax before joining the parliamentary staff at Ottawa in 1868. From 1880 to 1902 he served as Clerk of the House and was a recognized authority on parliamentary procedure. He was a founding member of the Royal Society of Canada and a prolific writer on historical and constitutional subjects. In 1898 he was created a K.C.M.G. (Knight Commander of the Order of St. Michael and St. George). He died in Ottawa.

Okay - we're back on track again. The Cossit House is one of the oldest homes in Sydney and was built in 1787 by Reverend Ranna Cossit, the first Anglican Minister in Sydney. He was the minister of St. George's Anglican Church, the oldest church on Cape Breton Island. He was a United Empire Loyalist from Claremont, New Hampshire and lived here with his wife, Thankful. Thirteen children were born to them and ten survived. There were six girls and four boys. Unfortunately, Mrs. Cossit died in childbirth in 1802 at the age of 46. In 1805, Rev. Cossit was transferred to Yarmouth, NS. He wasn't able to take the children with him because Yarmouth was like a wilderness. He left them back here in Sydney with the oldest daughter, Sophia. She was a school teacher around the age of 21. At that time, some of the older children would have already left the house. Ranna Cossit did not remarry and died in Yarmouth in 1815 at the age of 71. The house was purchased by the province of Nova Scotia and the Old Sydney Society in 1976 and opened to the public by the Honourable Vincent J. Maclean, Minister of Lands and Forests and Minister of the Environment in 1977.

The first room we come to is the Parlour (the sitting room is now the office and was filled with people so we didn't go in there). The Parlour was the best room, only used for special occasions or important events like weddings, christenings, funerals and teas. The letter book on the secretary belonged to Ranna Cossit. He copied any letters that were sent to him and letters that he sent out. This book gave the historians a good look into his life as a loyalist and what it was like for him to leave Claremont and move to Sydney with his family. There is a sampler on the wall that was completed (sorry, my picture is not the best with the glare on it) by a young girl named Margaret Mackenzie in 1807. A sampler was a learning tool for girls, in completing a sampler, a young girl would learn how to sew, read and write. Afterwards they would hang it in the parlour to show off the daughter's work.

Also in here - I spot this and LOVE it. It's fascinating, this lace-making stuff.

In the kitchen - cooking was done over the open-hearth fire. A large candle making table stands in the corner (THAT picture didn't turn out). A table like this was most likely used to make candles for the church. Most families in those days to to hand dip their candles. This was done using tallow, which was rendered down beef or pork fat. Sometimes beeswax or honey was added to try to make the smell better. Tallow candles were very nasty to burn. They smelled terrible and were greasy and sooty. If they were not stored in a cool place, they could go rancid. They had to be stored in air tight crocks or wooden containers, so as not to attract mice and rats or other rodents that would eat the candles. Pewter was popular up until 1800 after which ceramic was used more often. Pewter was made with lead and sometimes caused lead poisoning. So, between the candles and the cookware, life was not a bunch of fun.

The Borning Room - This is the small room off of the kitchen were Mrs. Cossit delivered six of her children. She would use it to nurse or nap her babies and if anyone was sick, this is where they would go until they were better. There was always someone in the kitchen that could look after the sick person. It was easier to keep heated as it was just off the kitchen and was much better than being alone upstairs in a cold bedroom.

Upstairs, there are four bedroom, only two of which we could view. The main room.

And one of the children's rooms.

There is also an attic. This is where the servant would sleep as well as being a storage area for many household items and foods. There is a straw mattress on the floor by the chimney where the heated bricks would keep the servant warm. We can't go up there, but a peek.

Out the backdoor is a lovely garden and filled with herbs and items used in the kitchen.

As I check it out, there is one that is unfamiliar to me. It is called Feverfew. Supposedly, it is a cure-all for headache, worms, fever, vertigo, and depression. It promotes menstruation and prevents maltemper from obstruction. No wonder I haven't heard of it. Drug companies would be out of business. I went and looked it up and it is available and listed as a help for other items. Yes, it gets poo-pooed, but everything that isn't big pharma gets that. Hmmmm.

Spotted across the street - no information.

Next up is St. George's Church, also known as The Old Garrison Church. It was constructed as the Garrison Church for the original British Engineers who laid out and surveyed the town in 1784. continuously used as a Parish Church ever since, this building is the "Mother Church" of Cape Breton Island. The building was restored several times but the year 1974 saw its first major "shore up" when Her Majesty's Canadian Government provided funds under the Labor Intensive Program, and the Government of Nova Scotia undertook to pay for electrical and other works not covered under that program.

We are greeted by these ladies adorned in period hats, fully decorated with feathers and flowers. It's kind of funny, because as Mister was removing his hat (something he ALWAYS does in a church) he is asked to remove it. Okay - but it prompts a question as to why he has to and women don't. No one really has an answer except I guess that it is because they are so pinned down, removal can be difficult.

We arrive just as a tour group does and take a seat to listen to the presentation. It's quite informative and turns out that the pew in front of us (pictured above) is reserved for royal visits. Two perspectives on the nave -

So, during the talk we learn that the church consisted of simply a nave, a plain building, constructed of grey stone, having a large ventian window at the east end. The building was approximately 40 x 20 and had three circular leaded windows along each of the north and south walls. There were no pews and a dirt floor. Benches or chairs MAY have been brought for the gentry by servants or slaves for services. Soldiers and commoners were expected to stand during the sometimes three hour services. It did receive some funds in 1803, but served as a Garrison Chapel and Parish Church until the removal of troops in 1854, to fight in the Crimean War. We also learn that the oldest antiques in the church are two wooden plaques. One with The Ten Commandments, the other with The Lord's Prayer and The Apostles Creed. They are dated to 1891 and were originally hung on the Eastern wall behind the alter. Today, they are still intact and now hang on the Western wall.

When the program was complete, we both went to peek at the 1910 Casavant organ that it took 20 years from time of purchase until they received it. Woah.

On the way towards downtown. There is a TON of construction going on.

The Historic Bank of Montreal - completed in 1901 and including a copper dome.

Murals around town -

We stop in at the Cape Breton Centre for Craft and Design. I didn't take pictures inside, BUT - this statement should be shared. Cape Breton Centre for Craft & Design is located in Unama'ki, the land of the fog, the unceded and traditional territory of Mi'kmaq. At the Centre we strive to honour and uphold the Treaties of Peace and Friendship made with the Mi'kmaq by celebrating the ongoing tradition of beautiful and creative craftsmanship of the First Peoples of this land.

More about town -

Interesting -

Everything I read said to see the Highland Arts Theater. We're here. Unfortunately, they are not open. Our date to visit here was changed and I'm so sad.

Okay - how about a Farmer's Market?

I had to laugh and went to talk to the guy that was performing. The sign behind him told what he was there for. Cracked me up.

HONEY! Hey, Shonie, we're thinking about you.

Back towards the water -

So pretty. The fog lifted today and we had beautiful weather all day. Wonderful stop.

Yep, we're in Sydney. Founded in 1785, Sydney was chosen by loyalists as the site for a colonial capital. Cartographer Col. DesBarres was the first governor. I think I've already told you that. Sydney has a rich and colorful history as a Spanish fishing port, a military city, a major Canadian seaport and a main industrial heartland for the Atlantic region of Canada. Home to the Mi'kmaq people, refuge to Basque fishermen in the 16th century, known to frequent European visitors in the 17th century as Spanish Bay, Sydney later became the port of entry for 50,000 Scottish immigrants who settled on Cape Breton Island in the early 19th century. At the beginning of the 20th century, Sydney was transformed from a quiet little town into a major industrial canter and became known as one of North America's leading producers of steel and coal. Strategic in location on Canada's east coast, Sydney was the assembly point for the slow convoys crossing the Atlantic to England during World War II. Today, Sydney is Nova Scotia's second largest urban canter with commerce and tourism playing a major role in its success. Each year, Sydney welcomes thousands of cruise ship visitors and touring public to its port.

It is time to feed and water the hungry beasts.

FABULOUS traditional music being played and they write it all themselves. Amazing.

A salad for me and Mister order mussels.

Which he then proclaims are the best mussels he has ever had (curried) and proceeds to like them clean. He is in gastronomical heaven.

Kelly and Shonie meet up and join the fun. Mussels and Fish and Chips for them.

Memories being made --- most excellent.

REALLY loved this glass.

Ugh - all good things must come to an end. We have one more spot to check out - The Sydney Merchant Mariners Memorial is not just an impressive monument but also a very important one. The monument tells the heroic story of the sailors on merchant ships carrying equipment and supplies to the Allied forces in Europe during WWII.

Time for the return to ship. This is a true CANADIAN goose.

Mister goes on ahead of me as I stop to pick up a sea glass turtle that I spotted on my way into town.

As I'm walking up to the ship, I see Kelly and Shonie ahead of me. They inform me I am the last person. What? Where did the time go? Well, we mark the occasion with a picture and some jeering from the passengers above - to which Kelly responds and they hush. That's a "ya had to be there moment."