Friday, December 14, 2012

Iceland - Day 4 - Eastern Fjords

Early wake up this morning, with breakfast in the large dining room.  Lots of food again, for just 4 people. We eat a leisurely meal, looking out onto the dark ocean. Mister is going back to the iceberg lagoon to get pictures when the sun comes up. I have decided to stay and plan out our day and pack us up so we can leave when he gets back.

Mister drove out and parks at the visitor center building and walks around taking pictures while trying not to slide into the lagoon. As it gets light, he drove back across the bridge to where pieces of iceberg wash up onto the black sand beach.




The beach is littered with thousands of chunks of ice; all different shapes, sizes, and colors. The clouds are not behaving, so the Sun stays hidden, but the light is good enough for some interesting pictures. Some of the pieces are so clear, you can see through icebergs that are 4-5 feet thick. After many pictures, and giving up on ever seeing the Sun, Mister drives back to the farm. All of these houses are owned by one family; all of them doing different tasks to help the group.





Mister arrives and can't get in the room. After many knocks, I open the door, having spent the entire time reading and sleeping. Mister has brought a chunk of ice back from the beach. These icebergs are from glaciers, so the water can be thousands of years old. We snap a quick picture and carry it back outside.  Look how very clear it is -- so pure.







It is late in the morning and so is time to start our days journey towards the eastern fjords.  As usual, we are alone on the roads but we are also the lone witnesses to the days beauty that surrounds us.


We spot a stand of trees -- oh my -- they do grow here.  It is truly a rarity to see them even though we have read about a few spots on the island where there are "forests".

The mountains are vivid in pinks and oranges from the sun and we cannot help but stop and stare often.

The lone roads make it possible for us to do just that and we take advantage of it as much as we can.

Along the way, we are learning the road signs slowly but surely and laugh as we come to one that indicates a reindeer crossing.  It becomes even more comical as we spot a reindeer running along side the road just beyond the sign.  After a short time, we spot one that is actually standing still and manage to get a picture before we startle him.  Very cool.

The scenery and sights of Iceland change by the minute along with the colors as one drives down the highway.  The eyes never tire and dart about looking to take it all in.  We spot some old turf buildings along the side of the road and Mister comments on wanting to get close to some if we get a chance.

A glance at the gas gauge tells us that we need to refuel and we are entering Hofn at about the same time.  A great little ocean town with a 360 degree view of the most astounding vistas ever.  Oh my eyes -- they cannot take it all in.






We drive through town and stop in at a little cafe for some lunch and a drink.  A reindeer burger is on the menu along with some of the most delicious red onion soup.  I could have eaten this soup with its homemade bread accompaniment all day long.  So yummy.



It is time to tackle the fjords so away we go.  As we weave along the coastline, we are surprised at how high we are next to the ocean and yet the lack of guardrails is fascinating.  People are taking care of them self here and if they are stupid enough to drive off the cliff, well so be it I guess.  We have seen this several times the past couple of days in relation to stairs and handrails, icy walks, etc.  We love the lack of intervention and the way people seem to automatically take care of things properly when they realize that no one else is being paid to do it.  This is reflected in the absolute cleanliness of this island everywhere we go.

The fjords are deep into the island and it takes quite awhile to go around each one.  There is a short cut up ahead on the map and we consider taking it, but alas the road is closed and so we continue on the main road.  The snow is getting worse and our visibility is very limited.  Since we do not see another car except about once per hour, we know that if we go off the road -- well it would be awhile before anyone found us.


The turn towards the north takes place and the first thing we spot is another road closure sign.  Hmmmm.  This is the main road and we are not sure what to do now.  I flag down a car and ask the gentleman how to get to Egilsstathir.  He spoke little English, but between the two of us we get directions that include a secondary road and a tunnel and so we turn back towards the fjords and follow two more of their loops, spotting fish farms in the water as we do so.



About an hour later, we come to the tunnel.  It is at least a mile long and I find it very interesting.  The walls are rough cut through the mountain, but it is well lit and has stop outs and phones all along the way.

As we exit the tunnel, the sun has left and we will have twilight/dark the rest of our journey today.  We know that we are in the middle of the largest forest in Iceland, but our visibility is still very limited due to lack of light and blowing snow.  Oh well.  As we enter into Egilssththir, it is a dreamland.  I mean that seriously.  The snow has been falling all day and the trees are absolutely beautiful.  What a winter wonderland.  We find our farmhouse, check in, and head out to find some dinner.  I feel as though I am in a picture postcard or painting of some sort and expect a sleigh to go by full of laughing locals.  Finally we spot a hotel with quite a few cars in the parking lot and so we take a spot and head in.  There is a special Christmas dinner being held there and so we get comfy in a couple of overstuffed chairs in the "parlor".  We order a drink and talk about what to do for dinner - with this being an option.  As we are talking, there are some young guys playing guitars and singing in the sitting area behind us.  It is pleasant and as we start to relax after a tough driving day for Mister.  A short while later we hear "Folsom Prison Blues" and start laughing as it is clear they are trying to get our attention. The next song is "Cotton Fields Back Home" and our giggles start again as they say "Texikana".  Finally, we start talking with them and soon move over to the sofas near them for a most delightful evening visiting with them and sharing stories of life in both the United States and Iceland.  (If you copy and past this link into your browser, you can hear one of their original songs.)

http://www.youtube.akroherbaty.com.pl/video/SL46pIpGlK4/sveitabandi-nefi-texti-eftir-ppukarlinnwmv-.html



We spend most of this thoroughly delightful evening with the boys and head back to our room without ever achieving our goal of dinner.  Too funny.



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