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The trip takes about 2 1/2 hours to go half the distance we traveled getting here two days ago. Seems odd, but it is all up hill.
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We arrive in Ollantaytambo around 8 and watch a group of porters unload one of the train cars full of camping equipment. This stop is on the Inca Trail, and must be close to camping spots. The packs look large and heavy, we are glad to just watch. PeruRail wouldn't hold our bags while we explored, so we cross the street and find this little gem of a hostel right on the main road to the ruins that is run by a brother and sister (El Bosque). After our broken Spanish explanation, he is happy to hold our bags for 2-3 hours while we explore the town.
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It takes me around the walls of the ruins and we come upon a solid concrete soccer stadium and a bull-fighting ring made of stone. Pretty cool way to get lost. I see a couple of locals walking down to their homes and point at the walls of the ruins and gesture/ask how to get in -- they send me back around to where I came from and sure enough -- there is the entrance. It is nice to get “lost” because we always find interesting things that way, like the bull-fighting ring. We go up to ask about tickets to the ruins and find out that they are only available in a package that includes 16 other sites and it is pretty pricey. We know that we are not going to use the other places and for some strange reason, you cannot purchase just the one location, so what to do? I get frustrated and go to sit down and study our itinerary and see if we will possibly go to any of the other places while in Cuzco. As I am doing this,
Mister talks with a young man named Daniel that is offering to take us to the other side of the city and up into the mountains to the "free" ruins. He is well educated about the area, so we take his offer and head into the old part of the city.
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We start our descent back down the mountain and Daniel delivers us into the city square and recommends a place for lunch. We say our good-byes and sit down to relax and enjoy the square while eating.
Roni is the owner, and his wife is the cook. We order cokes, a grilled chicken sandwich and a lemon panqueque, which turns out to be like a crepe. The food is good and Roni is very nice. Through pantomime he tells us we are welcome to sit as long as we like. It was a nice shaded patio, and after the climbing and early start, it was a nice siesta.
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We were able to observe the town life going on right in front of us as Peruvian women walk by with their many bundles on their backs and handcarts of fresh meat are pushed through the square to the restaurant destinations.
While resting, we meet Alberto, a Swede who was there to promote his plan to switch the local farmers from coca production to coco. Removing the coca from Peru is a goal of the government and he said his plan was the best. Mister shared a Cusquena beer with him and we chatted for awhile.
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We need to start heading to Cuzco, so we say our goodbyes and wander back down the street to collect our bags and find a colectivo. We find one and pile in, along with a few other people, and off we go for the 45 minute drive to Cuzco. We have the whole bench seat, so I stretch my legs and we enjoy the scenery. We go through many towns and farming areas. Oxen are being used to plow the fields and groups of workers are in other fields harvesting the potato crops.
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We find the Pachan Hostel in the business area of town, still walking distance to the main square and the tourist sights. Well, “business” wasn't what Mister had planned. It turned out to be a busy street with shops and a gas station right next door. The room was up a few floors, and with no windows out onto the street, the room was quiet.
We had used up our Soles, and we were worn out, so we collect our chips and snacks and bottled water and have a quick but meager meal, shower, and were asleep before 9pm (we must be old).
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